1. The traditional denim fabric refers to the use of pure cotton yarn indigo as the warp yarn, the natural color yarn as the weft yarn, the use of three to one right twill weave denim fabric.
2. Denim with different spinning processes and its main features:
(1) Ring spinning denim
Features: Feel soft and strong, suitable for light denim. Generally used for C32S and below.
(2) Air spinning denim
Features: smooth tissue, few yarn defects, uniform strips, hard denim feel, poor elasticity and low strength, but it is easier to absorb color. Suitable for OE21S and below.
(3) Siro spinning denim
Features: Siro spinning feathers are better than ordinary ring spinning, denim texture is clear, wear resistance, pilling resistance is good, the softness of the hand is between air spinning and ring spinning, drape and Straightness is moderate and smooth.
(4) Combed denim
Features: Even strips, less neps impurities, high strength, good gloss on the surface, suitable for high-end light denim.
(5) Slub yarn denim
Features: Slub yarn is often used as warp yarn, and the cloth surface has a soft moire effect.
(6) Strand denim
Features: uniform strips, smooth surface, smooth, high strength, often used in high-end light denim.
Custom Indigo Denim Fabric
3. Yarn requirements for custom Indigo Denim Fabric:
(1)The yarn must have good levelness and permeability;
(2)The yarn must have generally high strength and elasticity;
(3)The yarn should be even and the yarn has fewer yarn defects and less yarn hairiness;
(4)Fewer and smaller yarn joints;
(5)Yarn weight unevenness and weight deviation should be small;
(6)Air-jet spinning is used for denim, the warp twist factor is higher than that of ring spinning, and the weft twist factor is lower than that of warp.
4. The yarn for denim has certain characteristics compared with the yarn of general fabric, so the requirements for the original yarn are also different. Mainly manifested in:
(1)Warp yarn has higher breaking strength and elongation
The warp yarn process flow is long, often subjected to repeated bending and elongation, and the machine tension is large during weaving. Therefore, warp yarns have high requirements on yarn breaking strength and elongation.
(2)The maturity, levelness and permeability of raw cotton are good
Indigo dyes have poor dyeability and poor color fastness to rubbing. Cotton yarn spun with poorly mature cotton is prone to uneven dyeing, resulting in defects such as color flowers and white spots. Therefore, the content of stiff flaps, dead cotton and neps should be reduced as much as possible in the cotton yarn.
(3)Less yarn hairiness
The amount of yarn hairiness directly affects the quality of the subsequent products. The hairiness of the multi-sizing yarn and the warping process are difficult to separate, and the number of broken ends increases. At the same time, the dyeing solution becomes turbid and thick, and even the pipeline is blocked.
(4)Less yarn defects such as sliver and slub
For general denim, the yarn requires fewer yarn defects such as sliver, slub, etc., otherwise it will affect the appearance and shade of the cloth surface and increase the production break rate.
(5)Large winding capacity
Generally, the denim yarn count is low, and the capacity of the single-cylinder yarn winding should be increased as much as possible to reduce the knots on the cloth surface, which is more obvious when weaving on a shuttleless loom.
(6)The yarn fineness is correct, the weight deviation and the weight unevenness are small
Denim yarn still needs to ensure that the fineness, weight deviation and weight unevenness of the yarn are within a reasonable range, otherwise it will directly affect the control of the gram weight per square meter.
